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We left early the next morning with the objective of the day\nto get into our last country before Germany: Austria. The easiest and shortest\nway would have been to simply follow the Danube, but it seemed on our maps that\nthe path was not quite paved \u2013 which at this time of the year would have meant muddy\nareas on the side of the Danube. We would also pass through the Soviet\niron-wall on that day, which meant that apart from recent large highways, there\nare still surprisingly few roads connecting Slovakia and Austria. Luckily a\nborder crossing only for pedestrians and bicycles was created in the northwest\nof Bratislava, which allowed us to avoid going half way up to the Czech\nRepublic like we would have had to with a car. That path brought us along the\nMorava under the Devin castle and later past several monuments commemorating\nthe death of people who tried to cross into the west during the communist time\n(several hundred shot trying to go across a river only a few meters wide). The\nbridge took us across the border right into the large Schlosshof castle. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The first reaction in Austria was that it felt weird to be\nin an almost immaculate country: every single house well-maintained, farms\nperfectly clean, no dirt on agricultural machinery, etc. Well, basically\nAustria \u2013 but we had just gotten used to more unkept places! We stopped in a\nlocal restaurant to get our first Wiener-schnitzel since Thailand (back then at\nan Austrian expatriate!). <\/p>\n\n\n\n Somehow, even if we had progressively gone back to western\nEurope, we had to readjust again \u2013 prices had just tripled by crossing the\nSlovak border, dogs were not chasing you or barking like half-wits (some even\ngoing into restaurants with their owners and quietly staying under the table!),\nwe had to park the bike to the dedicated bike-parking area, etc. We yet got\nsome weird interactions, first Austria was the first country where people\nstarted to speak German to us \u2013 taking for granted that we had to be locals,\nwhen we were obviously foreigners anywhere else, then Austria still remains the\nonly country in western Europe where smoking is allowed in public places \u2013 which\nmakes local restaurants not enjoyable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n After our warm lunch in a small village, we decided to\nreturn to the Danube to avoid the Vienna traffic. Traffic was light in this\nregion, but we knew it was going to pick up as we approached the capital city \u2013\nso we wanted bike paths! Just as we got on the official Danube route, the rain\nonce again started and we made our way up the Danube and into Vienna without\nmany issues, enjoying what we could of the paved way. As it was approaching\nnightfall, we found our AirBnB and were happy to unload our wet things from the\nbike. <\/p>\n\n\n\n All the accommodation prices skyrocketed once we entered\nAustria and we were desperate to find places that were still within our budget.\nHoping to once again use Warmshowers, we contacted a few people along our path\nin Vienna, but they didn\u2019t seem considerate of a winter cyclist\u2019s needs\n(arriving at 8pm and leaving before 7am would be fine in the summer, but not in\nthe freezing cold and 8 hours of daylight). We instead found the cheapest (but\nnot cheap!) AirBnB along our route. Because we arrived in a new capital, we\ncouldn\u2019t help but checkout the bike store across the street (looking for a new battery\nfor the dead tachometer) before turning in for the night. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The next morning, with all our bags dry, we got back on the\nEuroVelo 6 and continued up the Danube. We immediately noticed that the bicycle\ninfrastructure was worlds apart from anything we had been riding on this entire\ntrip. The signage made navigation incredibly easy, we rarely cycled on the side\nof the road, and nearly everything was paved. This was a huge surprise because\nour navigation apps showed few bicycle lanes, so we were expecting a lot of\ndirt trails on the side of the river. In addition to the superb infrastructure,\nthe weather was also sunny \u2013 making the day that much more enjoyable. We took a\ndetour from the trail in Tulln to see the St. Stefan church, find a bakery for\nsnacks, and peek at the Christmas market. Although it was sunny, we had no\ndesire for a cold picnic lunch, so we found a small inn in \u201cLangensch\u00f6nbichl\u201d\n(yeah, we also had to get used to German words!) to take a break. Once we had\nour fill, we continued along the EuroVelo and made our way through a small\nforest. The rest of the afternoon, we followed the north side of the Danube and\nenjoyed the extremely flat route. We cycled into Krems an der Donau and met up\nwith our Warmshowers host in the downtown. Thankful for him opening his\napartment to us for the night, we made a hearty pizza and chatted about our\ntour. <\/p>\n\n\n\n The next morning, we left Krems and cycled through the\nhistoric downtown before rejoining the Danube. Now back on the southern side of\nthe river, we followed the EuroVelo through vineyards and up a few small hills.\nThe weather wasn\u2019t as great as the day before (it felt much colder without the\nsun), so we were both happy that we decided to take a break in Melk to do some\nsightseeing. In the late morning after cycling 35 kilometers, we arrived at our\nguesthouse, dropped our things, and headed up to the gigantic abbey looming\nover the village. As we were milling around the inner courtyard, we realized\nthat we got lucky and were able to join the afternoon tour without reserving a\nticket in advance. The next two hours were filled with discovering the abbey\u2019s\nhistory and gazing at the impressive Baroque architecture. Unfortunately, the abbey\ndoesn\u2019t allow photography, so our dear readers will have to visit to see the\ninside (or do a quick Google search). We finished the day with a Gl\u00fchwein at\nthe Christmas market before returning to the hotel for the evening. <\/p>\n\n\n\n After a hearty hotel breakfast the next morning, we saddled up and set out for Ennsdorf. We were having difficulties finding simple, cheap accommodation along the Danube, so our destination was now determined by places that fit within our budget \u2013 today, this meant a 30\u20ac-Airbnb, 80 kilometers away. We left Melk and crossed the Daube to the northern side (the navigation said that this way was faster). Shortly after we left, the clouds started to become denser and a downpour erupted just 20 kilometers after we left Melk. After we threw on our rain gear, we decided to keep riding until we found a warm restaurant for lunch. We stopped at a large restaurant and bit-by-bit, peeled off our wet layers to hang up to dry, and relished the hour in a warm room. The rain had subsided that afternoon to sprinkles, so we continued along and rushing to get to our destination before nightfall. Throughout our trip, we wouldn\u2019t consider 80 kilometers to be a long day, but now with extended restaurant lunches and only 8 hours of daylight, we would consider this distance to be the maximum that we could achieve in one day. The EuroVelo took us more inland in the afternoon, avoiding some marshy areas of the Danube, but we decided to deviate from the route and follow the river so we wouldn\u2019t have to add extra time zig-zagging through fields. At the beginning, this seemed like a fantastic decision because we were following a newly paved path, but it suddenly turned to ancient cobblestones, concrete blocks and rock piles with a sign stating that cycling wasn\u2019t allowed. We stopped and deliberated for a few minutes and looked at a few maps to figure out our best option: 1. Keep on going straight, 2. Cycling through the wet and muddy forest, or 3. Turning around. We decided to continue going forward despite awful trail conditions and it turned out to be the best choice because the path became paved again in two kilometers. We quickly stopped for a quick break before continuing the last 10 kilometers to Ennsdorf, rushing because it was after 4pm and we could notice daylight rapidly receding. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n Just as we were closing in on our goal, it started to rain\nagain so any hopes of arriving dry and not needing to hang all our gear had\ndiminished. The family hosting us were surprised to find that they were still\nhaving cyclists so late in the season; they mentioned that another young pair\nof cyclists had also stayed with them two weeks prior. For being a cheap\nAirBnB, the family was very accommodating and let us wash and dry our clothes\nand even said that we could have used their jacuzzi if it hadn\u2019t been raining. After\na day soaking wet, a jacuzzi was not quite are greatest envy anyway and we\nwould have better dreamt of an open wood-fire! We set off the next day feeling\nclean and refreshed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Leaving Ennsdorf, it seemed like the weather was cooperating\nwhen we cycled through Enns and back to the northern side of the Danube (since\nLinz is mostly on the southern side, the north side would have less traffic).\nAs we approached the city, we passed the steelworks and were happy that we\nchose the north side \u2013 the Sulfuric smell was\nintoxicating a few hundred meters away, we couldn\u2019t imagine what it would have\nbeen like right next to us. We wanted to see some of downtown Linz, so we\ncrossed the Danube and pulled up to the Christmas market in the main square \u2013 and\nhad a very Germanic snack (sauerkraut and sausages) while we enjoyed bit of\nsun. Afterwards, we pushed the bike through a little bit of the city before we\ndecided to cross back over the bridge and continue west. For the most part, the\nweather seemed stable as we were cycling along, so we were considering stopping\nfor a picnic lunch on the shores of the Danube. Just as we pulled off the trail\nat a rowing clubhouse for a bit of shelter, a major downpour had caught up with\nus\u2026 which wasn\u2019t making an outdoor lunch enticing. As we were looking around\nthe premises for a dry spot, we noticed that there was a restaurant on the top\nfloor of the club house AND it was offering warm lunch specials, so we decided\nto save our lunch for another day. As we sat inside the warm restaurant\nmunching on warm falafel, we watched the torrents roll across the Danube and\nwere happy that we pulled over when we did. By the time we left, the rain had\nsignificantly subsided, and we continued along the EuroVelo 6. <\/p>\n\n\n\n This part of the bike path wasn\u2019t very developed, so we\ncycled for quite a few kilometers on the flat river banks before needed to turn\noff and navigate. However, just as we were reaching the next village, we\nnoticed that the hills west of us had disappeared completely due to another\nstorm closing in on us and we cycled like mad towards Feldkirchen an der Donau,\nlooking for some shelter from an impending downpour. We pulled up next to a\nsmall supermarket just as pea-sized hail started pelting us. We stayed under\nthe roof for a few minutes as the worst part of the storm passed, mostly\nlaughing and taking videos of our situation, and then continued cycling the\nlast few kilometers to our hotel in Aschach-an-der-Donau. This night would be\nour last (and most expensive) in Austria, and we couldn\u2019t be happier. <\/p>\n\n\n\n Every evening, we were spending hours scrolling through\ninternet websites trying to find the cheapest places to stay along the Danube,\nshocked at the hotel prices. Even in the low season, there were no deals in the\nhotels and half of the guest houses weren\u2019t listed on internet aggregators like\nBooking \u2013 leaving us to look through every single directory in every village\u2019s\nhomepage. (Pro tip for cyclists: type \u2018pension\u2019 in Google maps, for some reason\nit will show guesthouses that are not listed anywhere else). <\/p>\n\n\n\n We are not quite sure what is going on in Austria, but yield\nmanagement pricing still has not been discovered around there \u2013 the price is\nthe same, fixed, yearlong, no discounts even when the area is deserted: we were\nwondering why anyone with a car would stop in those villages when they can get\nmuch better places for much less from international hotel-chains in Linz. With\nbicycles, things are a little more difficult, but given that we have not\ncrossed a single cyclist in weeks, the business model is perfectible. This\nhotel was yet our last in Austria and although glad that we were not freezing\noutside, we just couldn\u2019t understand what made accommodations three times more\nexpensive than the neighboring countries for a poor service \u2013 here we didn\u2019t\neven have a water boiler or studio kitchen, and had for only exchange with the\nowner a key and post-it left in the mailbox. Austria was our 20th<\/sup>\ncountry on the way this year, and not our best recommendation for the\nvalue-for-money! We were feeling deeply annoyed to give away daily 4 months of\naverage wage in Tajikistan to a ghost-host while we had stayed at amazing\nfamilies in Central-Asia just a few weeks ago. We did not linger long in\nAustria!<\/p>\n\n\n\n After an evening with the heater on full-blast, we work up\nand put on our rain gear once again. The rain never really subsided overnight,\nso we were wet immediately. We spent the first hour cycling through a \u2018remote\u2019\nstretch down a narrow country road along the shore, shocked by the frosted\nhilltops just a few hundred meters higher than us. Even through we were well\ninto December, this was another reminder of cold winter weather to come. Once\nwe reached the main road, we cycled up and down a few hills and made a lunch\nstop in Engelhartszell-an-der-Donau (\u201cthe spot of the hard fishermen on the\nDanube\u201d if interested in the translation of weird Germanic locations!) to dry\noff. This time it was hearty-yet-expensive venison ragout and Schnitzel with a\nwarm coffee. Shortly after Engelhartszell, we reached the first border crossing\nwith Germany across a dam and decided to leave Austria behind. We could have\ncontinued cycling a few dozen more kilometers in Austria but found it too\ntempting to not cross at this juncture. As we rode along the dam, it was soon\napparent that we couldn\u2019t simply ride across\u2026 instead we had to carry our\nluggage, the bike, and the trailer up and down two flights of stairs. This\nadded a little extra stress, but then we could finally say that we entered\nGermany. Shortly after the border, the rain subsided, and we rolled through\nsome small German towns along the Danube. We reached our hotel in the middle of\nPassau in the late afternoon a bit stunned that we were so close to home. Cedric\nhad worked tens on times in this area a few years before. As we cycled up to\nthe hotel, many people were about in the streets and we received many stares.\nAh yes, the return to Germany, were it\u2019s completely normal for people to stop\ndead in their tracks and just stare at you if you look out of place (the Pino\nand trailer don\u2019t help). Passau is the starting point of many river cruise\nships on the Danube and before we carried our rig up into the hotel, we became\nthe focus of a group of English-speaking senior tourists who apparently seemed\nmore impress that we had been outside in December than biked non-stop from\neastern Kazakhstan (because that\u2019s probably just a few miles east of their\ncruise\u2019s final destination in Budapest\u2026)! We spent the evening walking around\ntown, not too much in the churches and monuments (we had already seen enough\nand had been in Passau previously), but more interested in German shopping\nchains: Rewe, DM, Saturn, etc. Not because it was anything interesting, but\nprobably just to make sure we were back!<\/p>\n\n\n\n We entered Slovakia – almost without noticing it – along the Danube, apart from the sunny weather turning around and welcoming us with torrential showers and sudden strong headwinds. We just tried to pay no mind to that and pushed the last hour soaking wet before reaching our accommodation for the next two nights. The way getting into downtown Bratislava …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4549,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[150,59,220,183,166,149,222,3,2,223],"tags":[],"post_mailing_queue_ids":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/talkie-walkie.us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4602"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/talkie-walkie.us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/talkie-walkie.us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/talkie-walkie.us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/talkie-walkie.us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=4602"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"http:\/\/talkie-walkie.us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4602\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4613,"href":"http:\/\/talkie-walkie.us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4602\/revisions\/4613"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/talkie-walkie.us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4549"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/talkie-walkie.us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=4602"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/talkie-walkie.us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=4602"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/talkie-walkie.us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=4602"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}![\"\"](\"http:\/\/talkie-walkie.us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/DSC03659-1024x683.jpg\")
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