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{"id":2126,"date":"2018-08-07T08:17:56","date_gmt":"2018-08-07T07:17:56","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/talkie-walkie.us\/?p=2126"},"modified":"2018-08-10T17:01:08","modified_gmt":"2018-08-10T16:01:08","slug":"final-thoughts-wrapping-up-thailand","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/talkie-walkie.us\/blog\/2018\/08\/07\/final-thoughts-wrapping-up-thailand\/","title":{"rendered":"Final thoughts: wrapping up Thailand"},"content":{"rendered":"

Overall about Thailand, we really enjoyed the facility of cycling across the country. The roads are excellent, the traffic fairly good (okay, except larger cities), and multiple alternatives to the highways. There are a lot of people in the country, but people usually pass cyclists with a lot of space, do not drive too fast. It is sometimes too slow! We had to overtake some motorbikes and cars driving at 15km\/h just taking their time at multiple occasions.<\/p>\n

Clearly the most enjoyable thing that we had in Thailand is that we did not use the tent a single time and did not cook anything during the whole trip \u2013 even often the breakfasts! The hotels are good and reasonably priced, especially during the low season where the choices of accommodations large and excellent discounts offered. To make the choices faster, we had set our phone application \u2018\u2019Agoda\u2019\u2019 with a rating over 8.5\/10 and price under 500 Bahts for two people (about 12EUR or $15), preferably breakfast included, and swimming pool very welcome! For food, we had literally no stock of food with us, not even snacks. Almost every village has several street food stalls (also every few kilometers, but often also anywhere in-between), any larger town will have a 7-Eleven (also every 10km), and all for a ridiculous charge (we became reluctant to pay $1.50 for a full meal in Chiang Mai after weeks paying less than $1).<\/p>\n

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Our own bungalow – a luxury!<\/p><\/div>\n

We thus had days cruising 80km in 3h30 (usually 2h in the morning, 1h30 in the afternoon \u2013 normally a \u2018short day\u2019), not having to pack\/unpack the bike, stopping every hour to get something to eat, getting super-fast internet through the cell-phone (if not a lightning-fast internet through Wi-Fi!) in the evening, and getting a top-comfortable room with AC at night. In short: cyclo-touring in luxury!<\/p>\n

However, Thailand felt all the way like \u2018there is something weird\u2019 in that country. Compared with Malaysia a little south, we had a lot less interactions with the inhabitants, without being unpleasant it felt a bit like \u2018smiling because we are officially the land-of-smiles\u2019 but not much more communication. The best administration in the country is clearly the army or the police, with the best equipment and facilities of every single village. We also realized that the country is politically one of the least stable around the world (17 coups in the last 100 years) and trending away from democracy. Malaysia had a lot of newspapers distributed and read everywhere, in all languages (even English) and we could see a lot of local meetings\/debates together with political parties\u2019 activities going on (we even talked to a MP while being invited at a Ramadan evening meal). Thailand on the other hand, has almost no written-press (or at least it is not available), the television is from what we could understand (and watch on the English-speaking channel NTV) \u2018happy-news-in-happy-country-propaganda\u2019 type, the best model friendly countries are Myanmar and Cambodia (the current massacres of the Rohingyas in Myanmar is apparently a micro event way exaggerated, but it is not much worse than protecting Pol-Pot for decades after the fall of the Khmers Rouges\u2026), and the king is described as some kind of god-supreme-leader. If you get foreign cable channels, the channel automatically shuts down whenever Thailand is mentioned (positively or negatively) \u2013 it happened that all foreign channels were covering the cave rescue during our visit, and we realized that BBC\/CNN\/DeutscheWelle\/France24 all had \u2018a technical problem\u2019 every time the rescue operation was mentioned.<\/p>\n

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In July, the king’s birthday month, it was requested that people wear yellow to show their support of the monarchy… so a lot of yellow things were on display.<\/p><\/div>\n

We are posting this after having left the country (that could send you in jail, the internet is scrutinized thanks to Chinese technology!), because any criticism of the monarchy is absolutely forbidden. The king is yet nothing of a model \u2013 no charisma, trying to transform the country into an absolute monarchy with the help of religion and the army, and in-between has for goal to become in the top-of-the-top-wealthiest list on earth. For the joke, he spends most of his time only an hour away from us in Germany in Starnberg (a nice town, we must admit, in case you are visiting Bavaria!), but to a point where he was considered a full-time resident and asked to pay several billions of euros of inheritance tax when the dad passed away.<\/p>\n

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Living just one hundred kilometers apart from one another in Bavaria!<\/p><\/div>\n

So, across the country, we felt that there were fewer schools than in Malaysia- particularly in the backcountry- but there is overwhelming presence of some propaganda to force everyone to revere the king. Each establishment was required to have a picture of the king hanging on the wall. Think of a mix of king Louis XIV in France for the costumes, Kim-Jung-Un in Korea for the kitsch paintings and slogans type \u2018our king brought science to our country\u2019 or \u2018our king knows how to educate dogs\u2019 (veridic), and some current oligarchies where the ruler is also the super-hero of the nation. I am not going to do any prognostics, but Thailand is not entirely cut off from the rest of the world, so I doubt that people will remain na\u00efve and trusting for the whole reign of the current king. The propaganda really reminded me of Hosni Mubarak while visiting Egypt in 2002\u2026 and look what happened. From what we understood, the father and previous king (who died in 2016) was smart enough to still improve the economy a lot during his reign, remained politically in the shadow, and was thus overall appreciated. The son however, seems to be a little less wholesome (John Oliver called him a buffoon, that\u2019s seem quite accurate), and is therefore a lot less in the Thai\u2019s hearts. But again shhh, it\u2019s not allowed to say it \u2013 as a foreigner you\u2019ll get into trouble, as a political opponent you may end-up in the jail\/crematorium which is literally located under his palace in Bangkok.<\/p>\n

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With no good options, we decided to head somewhere with better weather! Note Cassie’s Thai alphabet skills!<\/p><\/div>\n

On another note, as you may have noticed, we have jumped over a few countries and are now in Central Asia, a little different from our original planning. A few reasons for that:<\/p>\n